Kálfshamarsvik

Now it was time to drive further North where I was staying at Skagaströnd in a former Fish factory which has been turned into a very nice guesthouse recently.

Around 1900 Kálfshamarsvik has been a very busy fishing station and a very small village. One can still see many ruins of the former houses in this area. There is a lighthouse in Kálfshamarsvík, built in Art Deco style in 1940, and taken into use in 1942. But the most interesting part of this place are the various types of basalt columns and formations you can find around this bay.

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Finally, my first „live“ Northern lights !

Last week in my lonesome cabin I finally had the pleasure to see Lady Aurora „live“, even two nights in a row. So, first night was just watching and staring at them. It definitely has a fascination – although one should never expect to see something you know from high-quality pictures at the night sky.

Okay, first night was to „learn“ for what to look out when a promising night is predicted. During my second night I tried to catch the Northern lights with my camera but night photography is very tricky (if not somehow complicated shooting something you don’t really see at the pitch dark night sky). But – I had at least some „proof“ in my camera, not more simply a proof… 😉

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Glanni waterfall and Grábók crater

In the morning of that day I was still quite hyped as the night before I saw for the first time Northern lights in „live“ – what a special experience, now I want to see them over and over again!

The Glanni waterfall is a waterfall in Nordura river. The locals believe it is to be the dwelling place of elves and trolls. The word Glanni means light or shining. The waterfall has this name because of the bright white color of the water as it hits the rocks below.

Grábrók crater rises about 170 meters above the ground and belongs to the volcanic system of Ljosufjoll. The crater is the largest of three and was formed about 3400 years ago in a fissure eruption. The lava that now forms the lava field Grábrókarhraun came from these three craters; Stora Grábrók, Grábrókarfell and Litla Grábrók.

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Hraunfossar and Barnafoss

The two waterfalls Hraunfossar and Barnafos were only a 15 minutes drive away from my cabin at Reykholt. It was a chilly but lovely day with blue sky and sunshine – and this was „painting“ the Hraunfossar in amazing autumn colors. And I’m not telling anything about my „adventure“ afterwards which was caused by confusing and contrarious information of my paper map and Google maps… But I made it back safely to my cabin in the end.

Hraunfossar is a series of waterfalls formed by rivulets streaming over a distance of about 900 m out of the Hallmundarhraun, a lava field which flowed from an eruption of one of the volcanoes lying under Langjökull glacier. The name comes from the Icelandic word for lava (hraun) and the word for waterfalls (fossar).

Literally a stone’s throw upstream from Hraunfossar, there is another waterfall called Barnafoss. Its name, the waterfall of the children, comes from an accident which is said to have taken place here in former times. There was a natural bridge over the waterfall and two children from a nearby farm fell to their deaths crossing the river on the bridge. Afterwards, the grief-struck mother had the bridge destroyed.

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Driving in a shower of sleet from Selfoss to Reykholt

When I was leaving my place at Selfoss for driving towards Reykholt and my next place, I somewhen suddenly was amidst a strong shower of sleet – winter has definitely arrived.

Nevertheless, I stopped at the Þórufoss waterfall which is at the street between Hvalfördur and Þhingvellir. It’s a less famous 18 m high waterfall which is known to freeze over during winter time. And this waterfall was also used as a shooting location for Game of Thrones as the home of the Children of the Forest. 

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Around the Reykjanes peninsula (it’s like driving on the moon) – and winter has arrived…

Today I did a tour around the Reykjanes peninsula, in the very south-western part of Iceland. Most of the time I had lovely, sunny weather with chilly temparatures and a mind-blowing-away wind but at my first stop at Kleifarvatn winter suddenly arrived (but it is said, if you don’t like the Icelandic weather, wait 10 minutes – and this time it was true)… It felt so obscure driving around this peninsula as I was constantly thinking – this must be like being on the moon (exactly my thoughts when I was first time landing at Keflavik airport in 2015).

There was a prolonged period of constant volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula, the Reykjanes Fires, from the 10th to the 13th century; between 1210 and 1240 about 50 square km of land were covered in lava. The area is fed by five volcanic systems; geological evidence suggests that they seem to activate in a coordinated way about every 1,000 years. In the twelve weeks from 21 January 2020, after centuries of relative inactivity, there were more than 8,000 earthquakes and about 10 cm of land uplift due to underground magma intrusions on the peninsula – leading to concerns of a new phase of activity which could cause disruption for centuries.

First stop was at Kleifarvatn. It’s the largest lake on the Reykjanes peninsula and located on the fissure zone of the Mid-Atlantic ridge. The lake has no visible water coming in or going out as most of its water comes and leaves underground.

Nearby is the multi-colored geothermal high temperature area Seltún with lots of (stinking) steam and bubbling springs – due to many solfataras, fumaroles, mud pots and hot springs.

Not far from Seltún lies the Grænavatn (Greenlake). The lake is a volcanic crater that got its name from its unusual green color. The color is due to a high level of sulphur in the water and its depth. Unfortunately, the light was not good enough today to catch the green color.

Gunnuhver lies quite far in the west of the peninsula and is the central high temparature area of the volcanic system on Reykjanes. The energy of the volcanic system is used in the geothermal power station Suðurnes. There is a myth of the ghost Gunna who played tricks on the people until the priest banned her in an hot spring whose name became Gunna.

The Reykjanesviti (lighthouse) stands close to the Atlantshafshryggurinn (Mid-Atlantic ridge). Valahnúkamöl is a mountain, lava and rock formation directly located on the Mid-Atlantic ridge and its shapes were formed by powerful storms, high waves and ponding surf. Here I felt the most like being on the moon, deserted lava fields and minimal vegetation.

The Bridge between the continents is a small footbridge over a major fissure which provides clear evidence of the presence of a diverging plate margin. The diversion of the plates is 2 cm per year. The bridge was built as a symbol for the connection between Europe and North America.

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Þingvellir National Park

On Saturday I’ve been to one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland – the Þingvellir which was the site of AlÞing, the annual parliament of Iceland from 930 AD.

It was a bit like an April weather day, but I got only once soaking wet – luckily I was prepared and am carrying around enough jackets and boots in my car…

Þingvellir is now a National Park and a site of historical, cultural, and geological significance. The park lies in a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic-Ridge and the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. To its south lies the Þingvellavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.

There’s also a waterfall, for sure, the Öxarárfoss. It flows from the river Öxará over the Almannagjá, a gorge which marks the edge of the North American tectonic plate. The pool at the base of the waterfall is filled with rocks.

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Kerið – a volcanic crater lake

Kerið is a volcanic crater lake located in the Grimsnes area, along the Golden Circle. It is one of several crater lakes in the area, known as Iceland’s Western Volcanic Zone. The caldera, like the other volcanic rock in the area, is composed of a red (rather than black) volcanic rock. The caldera itself is approximately 55 m deep, 170 m wide and 270 m. Kerið’s caldera is one of the three most recognizable volcanic craters because at approximately 3,000 years old, it is only half the age of most of the surrounding volcanic features. While most of the crater is steep-walled with little vegetation, one wall is sloped more gently and blanketed with a deep moss, and can be descended fairly easily. The lake itself is fairly shallow, but due to minerals from the soil, is an opaque and strikingly vivid aquamarine.

Yesterday, when I’ve been at the crater it has been very windy and rainy, so my pictures have been a bit off -I tried to pick the 2 best ones.

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Golden Circle

Two days ago I did my Golden Cirlce tour (excluding Thingvellir which I will do separately), again most time as the only visitor. I did go to Faxi, Brúarhlöð, Gullfoss and Geysir (Strokkur) – and finished off by icecream at Efstidalur farm.

Faxi or Vatnsleysufoss has been described as a small version of Gullfoss but of course not as powerful. The waterfall is 80 m wide and 7 m high.  It is a beautiful waterfall placed in a wonderful and peaceful landscape.  It is also possible to walk quite near the waterfall on the lower level and feel the drizzle from the water. Although never lacking water the waterfall has also been named Vatnsleysufoss meaning the waterfall with no water or the waterfall with shortage of water. (pictures 1-2)

The rock Brúarhlöð consists of is Breccia, a type of rock formed by tectonic and volcanic forces, which gives the canyon its unique look. Only a powerful river could have shaped solid rock into an intricately entwined canyon and Hvitá, which translates as the white river, is well-known for its ferocity. (pictures 3-5)

Gullfoss (Golden falls) is a waterfall located in the canyon of the Hvitá river. This waterfall consists of two stages, one with 11 m, the other with 21 m height, and these two cascades build some kind of a rectangle. From the second stage the water falls into a gorge that is 2.5 km long and up to 70 m deep. It is said that its name originates from the fact that the waterfall shines „golden“ during sunset.

The average amount of water running down the waterfall is 141 cubic metres per second in the summer and 80 cubic metres per second in the winter. The highest flood measured was 2,000 cubic metres per second. One can go very close to the stages and standing there you really hear and feel the power of the falling water… (pictures 6-9=

Geysir (Strokkur) is a fountain-type geyser located in the geothermal area besides the river Hvitá. It typically erupts every 6–10 min and its usual height is 15–20 m. Strokkur is now more famous than the Great Geysir that is no longer erupting. (pictures 10-12)

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Turfhouses at Keldur farm

Sunday was kind of a lazy day and I’ve only visited the Turfhouses at Keldur farm, not far away from Hella.

Keldur is a historic settlement where Jón Loftsson, the chief of the Oddaverjar clan, lived during the last years of his life. Keldur also had a Catholic monastery. There is a medieval-type turf farm at the site, the only large turf farm that has been preserved in South Iceland. There is an underground tunnel leading from the hall, thought to date from the 12th or 13th century, which was probably built as an escape during a time of conflict.

Keldur derives its name from the springs that can be found in the farmland. Although most of the houses date from the 19th century, the oldest part of the farm building is the oldest preserved part of a turf farm in Iceland.

Unfortunately it is already end of the season, so I wasn’t able to visit the museum and go inside the turfhouses.

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